26 May 2008

Kurrunurruvuti maa ehk uus kodu Kununurras














piltidel> aborigeenide kujutamine looduspargi 6petlikel teadetetahvlitel & valge inimene p2ikese k2es.
Kununurra on oma asukohta (ei kusagil) arvestades suhteliselt tsiviliseeritud. Linnakest läbivad turistide karavanid ja maasturid, et minna loodusparkidesse, mis linna igast küljest ümbritsevad.
Tsivilisatsiooni märk on toidupood Coles (meie Prisma näiteks) ja Target (sisuliselt Kaubamaja). Kuigi kaubavalik poodides võrreldes Sydneyga on väga erinev. Aga arusaadav ka – Sydneys müüakse talve riideid, siis müüakse ainult suve riideid :) Kõige meeldivamaks üllatuseks osutus see, et siin ei ole mozzisid (ehk siis moskiitosid). Seda seetõttu, et neil ei ole siin sobivat kliimat. Seega võib õhtul väljas istuda ja tähti vaadata ning ei peagi end mingi jubeda asjaga sisse määrima. (Darwinis oli olukord vastupidine).

Jõudsin kohale väikese viivitusega õhtul kell 7 – bussil läks üks kumm katki ja selle vahetamine keset ei-kusagit võttis tunnikese. (bussil on nii palju rattaid all, et seda kummi katkiminekut ei tundundki) Vastu oli tulnud hosteli auto ning hostelis juba Teele ootas... Laud restoranis (kus õekesed töötavad) oli juba kinni pandud... Väsinud aga õnnelik võiks selle õhtu kohta öelda. Teele ja Kadri on siin juba mitu mitu nädalat olnud ning klassifitseeruvad juba peaaegu kohalikeks. :)

Järgmisel päeval tegin linna-tuuri. Hindava pilguga promeneerisin mööda väikelinna tänavaid (tänavad on laiad ja kinnistud suured, sest maad siin jagub). Leidsin interneti ja kohviku, mis ühendatud raamtupoega ning kus wifi levib. Tuli meelde tunne, kui esimest korda Tartus vana Wilde uksest sisse astusin...
Jõudsin ka töö-büroosse, kus selgus, et maatöö on visa tuure üles võtma. Ilmad on olnud siin tavapärasest jahedamad ja melonid ei ole veel valmis. Aga tuleb vaid kannatust varuda – küll nad valmivad ja siis on 20-30 lisakätt vajalik. Lisaks töö-poe juhatajaga jutustades tuli välja, et üks farm otsib marketingi assistenti. Ma pole enda CV-d juba tükk aega kuhugi saatnud. Aga sedakorda saatsin. Kaua ilm tööta olla ei saa/ei oska. Rahavaru veel veidi on aga lihtsalt logelemine (ilma sealjuures raha kulutamata) on asi, mida ikka alles õppima pean.

Linna valitsevad aborigeenid. Nende ühendus maaga on ilmselgelt tugev – käivad nad enamasti paljajalu ja istuvad muru peal (ka siis, kui pinke on). Ma arvan, et see maaga ühendus on neil tõesti tugevalt geenides. Huvitav aga, kuidas nende järgmine põlvkond end üleval peab – need, kes kasvavad üles Coles toidu ja abirahadega. Praegune põlvkond tundub olevat üleüldises kimbatuses. Alates 60ndatest on nad tuttavad alkoholiga. Võrreldes euroopa kultuuriga ei ole nende geenid sellega kohanenud. Muutustega kohanemine on teema, mis aborigeenide kultuuri uurides omab täiesti uue tähenduse. Maailm pidi hakkama teistmoodi toimima. Erinevad hõimud pandi kokku. Kuna nad on nii eraldi elanud, siis olid neil oma kombed, arusaamad, oma keel. Ühe hõimu jaoks on aastas 4 aastaaega, teise hõimu jaoks 6 aastaaega. Ja valge inimse jaoks on siin 2 aastaaega. Kujutage ette segadust. Siis lahutati naised meestest. Seejärel otsustasid valged, et lapsed peavad olema emade juures kuni nad on 16. Aborigeeni kultuuris lähevad noored poisid 9 aastaselt meeste juurde. Passi said nad 60ndatel. See tähendas, et nad said siis ka kooli minna või reisima. 1960ndatel! Kununura tänaval kõndides aga on selge, et kihistumist vähendada on suhteliselt võimatu – iga valge inimene tunneb siin, et ta on väga valge nahaga. Ning naeratust vastu reeglina ei saa. Kununurra on nende Kuruunurruvuti kuningriik.

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